Weekend away in Portmeirion 2024

The destination for this thoroughly enjoyable and highly distinctive Zoomers visit was a stay at the village of Portmeirion - the extraordinary conception of Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, transplanting an exquisite slice of the Amalfi coast, as it appeared, to the improbable destination of North Wales: it is captivating and unforgettable, and is perhaps the epitome of ‘small but perfectly formed’: But the group itself might deserve the same accolade, consisting as it did finally (after some, alas, had had been unable in the end to join) of just three couples: Chairman Heather and Barry Barrett-Mold, John and Françoise Biles and Pam and David Taylor, with three cars converging on North Wales from various points in the south of England, some breaking the journey to Wales on the Friday and visiting the areas around Ludlow or Shrewsbury.

However, what was lacking in numerical strength was more than made up for by the stimulating and convivial fellowship – enjoyed, especially, over two excellent dinners in the justly-garlanded hotel restaurant. The hotel itself, too, was a delight, with elegant rooms overlooking the estuary and village and with stunning coastal walks through the grounds to the lighthouse or to explore the fascinating village.

With such numbers, it was an easy decision not to impose on this visit a heavily pre-planned programme, and to let members follow their own preferences. However, for the Saturday, John Biles nobly offered to drive all or most of the group on a sightseeing visit. Heather Barry John and Francoise enjoyed the countryside as we drove across to Anglesey in lovely weather and arrived at Plas Newydd which is situated on the banks of the Menai Straits. The art collection was fascinating and tour guides so good at engaging us all in the history. The gardens were lovely and autumn colours of Acers spectacular. Red squirrels are residents but we didn’t manage to see any which was a shame.

Plas Newydd, NT (‘New Hall’), seat of the Marquesses of Anglesey

The Taylors felt that they should opt out of this excursion, as David was still not feeling up to too much exertion after his summer operation. So, while Heather and Barry took up John’s kind offer and headed off to Anglesey, Pam and David spent the morning in Portmeirion, venturing no further than a sublime walk through the gardens, past follies, and along the coastal path to the lighthouse, with magnificent views of the estuary in the gloriously unexpected morning sunlight.

On the Saturday, when trips were planned to Plas Newydd, in Anglesey, or into Porthmadog, the heritage railway beckoned the Taylors. The sight and smell of steam from the railway station proved irresistible, and it was not long before we found ourselves on board ‘Mountain Spirit’ for a leisurely and spectacular return journey to Blaenau Ffestiniog on the narrow gauge Ffestiniog Railway (the managing company of which was founded in 1832 and is the oldest surviving railway company in the world, reflecting the slate industry’s prominence in the area – which has now resulted in the designation of the area’s landscape as a UNESCO World Heritage site).

This journey had the invaluable benefit of requiring absolutely no effort – except for a short walk around the terminal town, formerly the ‘slate capital of the world’. Even on a day of coruscating sunshine, the town was undoubtedly and unrelievedly grey: the fifty shades, through the distinctive blend of stone and slate, were everywhere: to a newcomer, some less monochrome features might have been welcome, but, in homage to the impact of the slate industry, perhaps no other colour would have been so appropriate and indeed, in its way, majestic.

The Taylors returned to the Portmeirion Hotel from the residents’ car park by buggy: the service provided was outstanding, and on this occasion the infinitely accommodating buggy driver took us via the long and scenic route to show us the delightful village design and buildings, which otherwise, because of the steepness of some of the slopes, would have been somewhat inaccessible to us.

Those with more mobility saw more of the village: pictures of this extraordinary village were contributed by John and Françoise Biles and by Heather and Barry Barrett-Mold.

We were reunited with the other four members of the group in good time for dinner – we enjoyed their account of Plas Newydd, but were also surprised to find that they had driven the road from Porthmadog to Blaenau Ffestiniog and had managed to catch up with our train (spotting us recumbent in our carriage), thus almost reuniting the whole group. Over dinner, conversation flowed as we reflected on our excellent experiences.

Awaiting dinner, in the elegant hotel dining room

Breakfast on Sunday morning was tinged with sadness that our time together had so swiftly come to an end, with the prospect of lengthy car journeys ahead. However, all agreed that the Zoomers had pulled off yet another highly successful occasion, albeit one shared by all too few members – and Gaynor Foulkes-Taylor’s inspiration for this outing was recalled with much appreciation. And so: one last happy group photograph…

Barry, David, Pam, Heather, Françoise and John before leaving the hotel

… and one last buggy-ride back to our cars, before waving a fond farewell to Portmeirion’s stunning charms. And, despite dire warnings about the onset of storm Ashley, the sun shone on (how lucky were we?!) and accompanied us on our return trip through Snowdonia’s fabulous countryside. An altogether delightful – and, for those in recovery mode after a recent operation, thoroughly restorative – visit to a remarkable and memorable venue.

Hwyl fawr!